Bregaglia, with its three alpine valleys Forno, Albigna and Bondasca, is every Although the valleys differ, they all offer a great choice of climbing walls, with. A lot of rock climbing can be accessed by a Swiss cable car to a dam. you can haul up a pile of gear and bivvy to get. a few days climbing done. Swiss Rock: granite Bregaglia. Author Chris Mellor Published Void () ISBN Review. + page guide book to rock climbing in the Albigna.

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Not sure if there is anything better in English the Swiss plaisir guides cover the area too. This translates into around pitches, although again this clibming how much of the easier ground is run together. There were still another six pitches and over m of climbing to go. Oldest Newest Oldest Best Beta.

Bregaglia Climbing Sciora Badile PDF £

Well, the huts are great, but very expensive. Once at the summit we considered making a dash for the nearby bivouac refuge but, almost miraculously, the storm clouds moved away to the North and evening sunshine greeted us at the summit monument which was still fizzing with static electricity. Mushin – on 30 May Mar 23, Beta: Rock Boulder Aid Ice Mixed 3rd 4th 5.

Sign Up or Log In. Over the years us we had both undergone an intermittent but reasonable Alpine apprenticeship. Best to ask at the hut for current conditions. So, is the Cassin a good objective for an experienced UK-based climber competent around E1, with decent but not vast amounts of Alpine experience?

In reply to Stephen Reid – Needle Sports: Young Brits on Denali’s Cassin Ridge. Extreme Alpinism for mountain Which discipline to focus on for Any and all help appreciated.

One and a half hours walk from here to the Sasc Fura refuge. In addition, the descent can be as problematic as the ascent, with the choices of a gruelling abseil down the North ridge or traverse over the summit and descent of the Voie Normale on the South Italian side. It is about one and half hours to the base of the North Ridge, from which there is a short abseil to the ledge giving the”Attaque Direct” to the Diedre Rebuffat; the original start via the Cengalo Glacier is not longer viable due to its retreat and generally diabolical state.


It was an clmbing feat of mountaineering, route-finding and endurance. We heard ominous rumblings across the valley and could sense electricity in the air as we simul-climbed the last of the ridge to the summit in about an hour.

If you can manage that easily in a day wearing rucksacks and have spent a few day acclimatising, you should be well prepared. Dan Affsprung – on 20 May This has caused a path and a hut to be closed and several routes to be made dangerous to climb. Can you get away with microspikes on snow fields and still do the good stuff?

They are for indication purposes only and can change at any time without notice. The other side NW of badile also has some allegedly stellar routes such as ringo star. Camping tolerated pretty much anywhere in the alpine. Now the clouds were just above us and looking decidedly black and I was getting really cold. The Sciora and Sasc Fura huts are considered the ideal points of departure for climbing these granite giants.

For alpinists rising to the challenge of scaling these walls, there are four Swiss Alpine Cub SAC huts at the base of several of these impressive peaks. The Via Cassinor simply “Cassin”, is now a frequently-ascended but much sought-after “tick” for the Alpine climber. Thanks for the advice, I’ll check these ones out.

Both give discounts for members of affiliated clubs such as the Austrian Alpine Club. The Crux Expedition Award is an annual grant to encourage young climbers to try for adventurous objectives.


Val Bregaglia, Swiss Alps TR

Although a useful exercise — the route is not all that obvious by head torch at 4. Cassin X dream axes Dec There are many other climbibg routes in the area if you prefer some more solitude.

Add another one to one and a half to the base of the North Ridge where there are plenty of bivvy options. In reply to alasdair Walk takes from parking at Laret. Browse all brands Mile 2QT 3rd Rock 5.

Stephen Reid – Needle Sports – on 17 May In reply to Dan Why don’t you want to fly to Zurich then train to St Moritz then you can use the buses up and down the valley etc?

Bregaglia Climbing 2018: Sciora Badile PDF

A combination of hard and easy pitches run out or moved together on would be ideal. Dan FlynnMark P. The face kept coming at us until the very last, with another pitch culminating in a strenuous pull onto the ridge.

Clouds were swirling up from the Cengalo and the upper part of the face was obscured. Thick clumps of cloud were jostling around rbegaglia, obscuring everything at one moment then revealing surrounding tops. For Cassin you want to wait a bit until the snowfield at the base clears somewhat. However, any climber who has seen the Badile and the perfect line of the Cassin will be drawn again and again to pondering its cllimbing.

Expect to be climbing in a queue in July. Technical Information Back to top. Thanks for the tips all.